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For more information about ice climbing and winter mountaineering, see our winter climbing page.

MOUNTAIN GUIDES ALLIANCE INC.

603-356-5310

Ice Report

February 28 - March 7, 2007

A.J.Jones

lan Turnbull

Kurt Winkler

603-520-6077

603-466-3949

207-935-3853

Some of the year's best climbing days are happening now. Day time temperatures are getting slightly above freezing and the arrival of another snow storm early Friday morning (March 2) and a partly cloudy week ahead bring a flicker of hope that the biggest classic climbs may eventually show up this year. Deep snow approaches and descents take longer and use more energy so bring a hot drink and some extra high calorie snacks. A headlamp with spare batteries is always a good idea. Some people are using snowshoes to approach their climbs — this hasn't happened in quite awhile.

Conditions:
Franconia Notch
: The Black Dike is good, bring rock and ice gear. Deep snow.
Kancamagus Highway: Champney Falls is good. Packed approach. Goofer's Direct has a thin, runout start.
Cathedral Ledge: North End steep wall is pecked, slab o.k.
Crawford Notch: : The s.w. facing Texaco Slabs are currently in, Amphitheater is good.
Arethusa Falls
: Good. Watch for holes in the center and at the base. Packed snow approach.
Frankenstein
: Pegasus, Hobbit Couloir, Chia, Cave Route, Bob's Delight (currently in, watch daily), The Trestle Cut Climbs (pecked), The Forest climbs, Mean Miss Treater, Waterfall (thin top-out), Standard, Penguin, Dracula, House of Blue and Practice Slab North are in. Lots to climb.
Mt Webster: Shoestring and all the other gullies are in - Landslide has a harder curtain than rated. These are long climbs, bring rock and ice gear, headlamps. Some approaches are not packed out yet and the descent down the Webster Cliff trail will also take longer to find if it's blown in. More snow Friday March 2
Willey's Slide
: Good.
Top of the Notch: Elephants Head Gully is good. The Silver Cascade is snow covered, Flume Cascade has some ice walls and deeper snow sections.
Mt. Willard: Hitchcock Gully, Upper East Slabs are good. Snowy approach.
Mt. Washington:

Huntington Ravine has good ice climbing. Check avalanche report.
The Lions Head Winter Trail is now open for above treeline access.
The Sherburne Ski Trail has good snow, esp. from Friday on.
The Harvard cabin is open. Sign up at AMC Pinkham Notch Camp.
Check the latest avalanche updates at the A.M.C. Pinkham Notch Camp or call the Forest Service 24 hr. avalanche hotline: 603-466-2713 (ext. 4) or log onto: http://www.mountwashington.org/weather/avalanche/
Lake Willoughby: The Tablets are in, other climbs worth checking out.

Click here for last week's report

Nereledge Inn ~ P.O. Box 547, River Road, North Conway, NH 03860
Phone: 603-356-2831 ~ Toll Free: 1-888-356-2831 ~ Fax: 603-356-7085 ~ info@nereledgeinn.com